The Long Way Round
A Wine-focused Journey Through Portugal’s Mainland
Portugal is nearly impossible to experience in one go. Despite it's smaller scale, the sheer amount of depth to learn from warrants a different focus each journey. From the southern beaches to the local feel of the north, to the islands of Madeira and Azores just a short flight away with an otherwordly feel, to the wave-chasing east coast and wine-drenched western region, the country surely has a lot to offer.
Our suggested pairing this go-around is a loop to and from Lisbon, up the east coast and back down the west.
In the country's capital, we suggest a stay at Bairro Alto Hotel, where the windows open onto rooftops layered in terracotta and the hum-drum of the city crowds flood through the streets. Another option sits a short distance away at Sublime Lisboa, a quieter address in a residential pocket (adjacent to a fabulous local restaurant) that feels more like stepping into a well-lived apartment than arriving at a hotel.
Give the city a couple of days. A pastel de nata per day and a bit of strong coffee is usually recommended. Tours in the city are too, although the roads often lead south to lazy beach clubs or west to the rocky shores of Cascais. A quick overnight or two can be had in the south, to Comporta, where the scenery changes to pine forests and sand dunes at Sublime Comporta.
From Lisbon the route moves north along the coast. In Nazaré, the Atlantic hits the shores in full force. Towering waves crash against the cliffs, drawing spectators and surfers alike, with big wave competitions throughout the surf season.
A short drive later, you'll arrive in the seemingly quaint city of Porto. The city carries the energy of a place mid-transformation, suspended somewhere in-between antiquity and alteration…a city being restored and preserved as much as bolstered by a young food scene and second-city energy.
At The Largo, a five-building monastery-like force built into the granite of the old city center, functions almost like a gathering room for the city’s creative community…as well as your sleeping quarters for the next few nights. Winemakers, artists, designers and travelers pass through its doors daily. The build-out of this hotel is impressive, taking several years of painstaking labor to eloquently connect the common areas or rooftop restaurants, spacious suites and a four-story gym. Although it's in the heart of the city, the sense of calm when you close the windows is undeniable.
One day our on the water, with the hotel's M/Y Yacht is a must. You'll experience a curated wine selection and food on board as you lazily drift down the Duoro River with sights of the many sides of Porto.
Now we move inward towards the wine country. The landscape is wonderful, with terraced vineyards descending toward the river in long, geometric rows carved into the hillsides.
Stay at Six Senses Douro Valley, a hillside property that blends directly into the surrounding vines. This is where the wine route truly begins. At Pormenor the focus is indigenous grape varieties, steep schist soils and a winemaker explaining a hillside’s personality across a long wooden table. The tastings are informal but deeply personal.
Further into the valley sits Mira do Ô, in São João de Lourosa. Sitting along the Dão River, the bed rock is typical granite, but the richness of clay found in this area is what allows for the beautiful balance of the vineyards.
Heading south toward Alentejo, we find Textura Wines, a family project that started in 2018 on the slopes of Serra de Estrela. The focus is low intervention winemaking that reflects soil and the earth's own science, leading to innovative wines from a mostly female team.
The journey finishes at São Lourenço do Barrocal, a historic farming estate transformed into a quiet retreat. Stone houses sit among vineyards and olive trees. Horses move across the fields. The kitchen draws directly from the surrounding countryside. Nights bring wide skies and complete stillness. It's a perfect ending to reflect on the diversity and beauty of this country.
