Tucked away in the peaceful town of Yamashiro Onsen, this inn offers a stay unlike any other. From the moment you arrived, the ryokan’s quiet elegance and deep connection to nature were palpable. Every aspect of the property, from its minimalist architecture to the private onsen baths and thoughtfully crafted meals, seem designed to encourage reflection and calm. Be prepared (or don’t be) for an immersion into the philosophy of simplicity and mindfulness, where every detail works in harmony to create a space for true relaxation.

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Arriving at Beniya Mukayu feels less like a checkpoint and more like easing into a pause. The building itself blends into the landscape as if it’s always belonged there, with its natural wood accents and earthy tones. It’s not flashy—no neon lights shouting its name—but rather understated, respectful of the surrounding nature. Walking up the path to the ryokan, the immediate calm takes over. You’re welcomed by a low-profile building that doesn’t compete with the lush backdrop of trees, mountains and gardens. In true Japanese fashion, it’s about the details—every plank of wood, every stone in the garden seems perfectly considered.

You may also have the privilege of being welcomed personally by the husband and wife team that founded the ryokan. When they aren’t traveling, they are stationed at the inn to oversee its wonders and welcome each guest into their home as if you were family. They are eager to share why they chose this specific location in Kaga, and about the special architecture and building process used to achieve this special experience.

The seasons envelope this space with an ever-changing mood, each bringing a deeper connection to the nature that surrounds it. During the spring Sakura bloom, feathered cherry blossom remnants come sweeping onto the outdoor terraces; in fall, the colors of changing leaves and chill in the air transform the subtlety of the inn into a hidden retreat amidst the painterly backdrop of the mountains; and, when it’s snowfall, there’s an even greater sense of serenity, quiet and reflection.

Once inside, the common areas keep that sense of natural tranquility. Expect warm wood tones, open spaces, and plenty of windows that offer up slices of the garden, as if nature itself is part of the decor. The library lounge is a particular highlight—a cozy, quiet spot where you can sink into one of the leather chairs with a cup of tea or something stronger from their bar. Books line the shelves, and there’s a feeling that time has slowed down, just for you.

THE ROOMS

While the ryokan’s exterior keeps things modest, the rooms are another story. You’ll find a combination of traditional Japanese ryokan elements—think tatami floors and shoji screens—mixed with modern touches that bring the comfort level up a notch. Each room offers its own private outdoor hot spring bath (onsen), which is probably the best place to question every life choice that didn’t involve being submerged in mineral-rich water while staring at a peaceful garden.

Room options, of which there are only 16, range from cozy rooms with garden views to more spacious suites that come with the added luxury of larger living spaces and enhanced features. The suites, of course, are the stars here. Spacious and minimalist, they exude a kind of calm elegance. Imagine yourself padding across the tatami in your yukata, sliding open the doors to reveal your private onsen bubbling away just outside. The suites are designed with floor-to-ceiling windows to keep you connected to nature, and at night, the quiet is so profound that it feels almost tangible.

DINING

Beniya Mukayu takes the concept of “kaiseki” dining seriously, which is as much about the art of balance as it is about flavor. Forget gimmicks or trendy ingredients—here, it’s all about fresh, seasonal produce sourced locally from Kaga’s mountains and sea. The restaurant serves meals that feel rooted in the area’s traditions but with a thoughtful modern touch.

Dinner is served in multiple courses, each one a delightful surprise of color and texture. Whether it's delicate sashimi or a perfectly seasoned piece of fish, every bite seems designed to remind you that simplicity is the ultimate sophistication. And let’s not forget the local sake—your hosts will likely suggest a pairing that makes you think, “Why don’t I drink more of this?”

WELLNESS

At the heart of Beniya Mukayu is the spa experience, which combines traditional Japanese bathing rituals with modern wellness treatments. The private onsens, filled with mineral-rich water straight from the springs beneath, are reason enough to stay at the ryokan. But if that’s not enough to melt away your worldly concerns, their spa offers a range of treatments that take relaxation to the next level.

From hot stone massages to a herbal body scrub, every treatment feels designed to remind you that your daily stresses are temporary, but the feeling of relaxation can be eternal. There’s also a focus on mindfulness here. You might find yourself drawn into a meditation session in the ryokan’s peaceful garden or trying out a yoga class led by a local instructor. Either way, you’ll leave feeling like you’ve hit the reset button on life.

OUTSIDE THE HOTEL

While you could easily spend your days within the confines of Beniya Mukayu, there’s a lot to explore around Kaga. The ryokan’s setting on the outskirts of the city makes it the perfect launching pad for day trips. Just a short drive away, you’ll find the Yamanaka Onsen, where you can dip into more hot springs or stroll along the picturesque Kakusenkei Gorge, with its winding pathways and scenic waterfalls.

Kaga is also known for its rich cultural heritage, and you’ll want to take advantage of that. The area is home to some impressive craft villages, where artisans create everything from lacquerware to Kutani ceramics. If you’re into history, take a trip to the nearby city of Kanazawa, where the Kenrokuen Garden (one of Japan’s most famous gardens) will satisfy your curiosity about traditional Japanese landscapes.

One of the standout features of Beniya Mukayu is the range of personalized experiences designed to connect guests with the local culture and traditions of Kaga. Among these offerings is a private Kinzangama pottery session, hosted at a nearby kiln known for its generations of craftsmanship (in fact, the father of the woman who now runs the workshop is a national hero in Japan for his work). This immersive experience allows participants to engage directly with the ancient art of Kaga ware, shaping clay under the guidance of a skilled artisan. The process itself is both calming and challenging, requiring focus and patience as each piece takes form. Guests learn how the tradition has been passed down through centuries, turning the creative act into a personal reflection of the ryokan’s own philosophy—rooted in heritage, yet uniquely tailored to each individual.

Another experience that delves into the local culture is the wagashi sweet-making session. Here, participants work with a master craftsman to create these delicate Japanese confections. Using simple ingredients like rice flour, sugar, and sweet bean paste, guests shape small, edible works of art, each one inspired by nature and the changing seasons. The process is meditative, requiring a careful hand and attention to detail. As the soft dough is pressed into intricate molds, the deeper cultural significance of wagashi becomes clear: they are not merely desserts, but symbols of Japan’s reverence for nature, to be enjoyed during quiet moments of reflection, often paired with tea.

For those looking for a completely immersive stay, Beniya Mukayu is piloting a program called "Mukayu Days." This curated experience removes any need for planning, as the ryokan takes care of every detail, from room assignments to daily activities. It’s designed for those who wish to fully disconnect and embrace the slow, thoughtful pace of life at the ryokan, allowing them to relax completely into the rhythm of their stay.

Beniya Mukayu isn’t the kind of place that screams luxury—it whispers it. The understated elegance, combined with the ryokan’s deep connection to nature and Kaga’s local culture, makes it an experience you won’t forget anytime soon. It’s the kind of stay that reminds you to slow down, take stock and appreciate the simpler things in life—like a quiet soak in a hot spring or a perfectly brewed cup of tea.

While it might not have the over-the-top flash of some luxury properties, that’s precisely what makes it so special. It's luxury with a soul—a place where every detail, from the architecture to the carefully prepared meals, feels like it was designed just for you. Beniya Mukayu offers the kind of relaxation that lingers long after you’ve packed your bags and headed back to the real world.